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Tacticool is a blog section on this site that members may use to share information, products, guidelines, and tips that are related to MilSim and Tactical topics.

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US ARMY Scorpion Camo

Posted by Red Commander on August 8, 2014 at 9:10 PM Comments comments (2)

Everyone is still throwing out what they claim to be new intel that the US Army has decided on Scorpion Camo as their new uniform.. In fact, it has been known for some time now by many that the Army was going to make this decision.

Here is a nice detailed article about how the Army made the decision and what type of improvements and changes are being made to the new unforms (for those of you that are only getting bits and pieces of intel).

 

http://tacticalgear.com/ocp-acus

Multicam Mechanix Gloves... Finally

Posted by Red Commander on June 25, 2014 at 8:00 PM Comments comments (0)

 

Nuff said,  go order some now:  http://www.mechanix.com/multicam

NEW ATPAT CAMO by RAP4

Posted by Red Commander on May 2, 2014 at 12:10 AM Comments comments (0)

This stuff looks to be a good alternative to all of the new hyped up camo patterns plaguing the industry... It's also at a more reasonable price too.

 

Fusion BDU Jacket (ATPAT) Large

Fusion BDU Pants (ATPAT) Large

New GC781 Rifle

Posted by Red Commander on August 28, 2013 at 3:45 PM Comments comments (0)

GC7A1 Specifications

Model No : EGC-016-7A1-GNB-NCM

Material Aluminum/Nylon/Fiber/Steel/Zinc/Plastic

Overall Length 1040 mm

Weight 3780g

Gear box bearing 8mm ball bearing Motor 16000rpm Hi-torque Long axis

Inner Barrel Length 510 mm

Magazine 450 Rounds

Muzzle Velocity 90-100m/sec with 0.2gBB

Link to the manual:

http://www.guay2.com/web/manual/GC7A1_manual.pdf

Link to site:

http://www.guay2.com/web/gc_product/GC7A1.php?lang=en

 

 

Summertime Tactical Items

Posted by Red Commander on July 20, 2013 at 9:20 PM Comments comments (0)

Just ran across these items at Academy Sports recently and thought they might be useful for Airsoft and possibly for Paintball in this hot and humid weather.

http://www.academy.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10151_10051_649753_-1__?color=Fossil&N=871287361+4294965209

 

 

http://www.academy.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10151_10051_645721_-1__?color=Fossil&N=871287361+4294965209

 

Airsoft

Posted by milsimbrotherhood on June 5, 2013 at 4:40 PM Comments comments (0)

This organization is now going to support Airsoft in addition to MilSim paintball.

AAR: 07-30-11 RE: S.C.A.-UP MK-7P

Posted by the professional Pro on July 30, 2011 at 2:25 PM Comments comments (1)

 

After Action Review 07-30-11

Master Sgt. Caleb 'Pro' Brown

Red Dawn, Fireteam Delta

 

 

RE: Small Caliber Arms Weapon Upgrade:

      Designation: MK-7P

      Manufacturer: Tacamo

      Caliber: .68

 

 

Testing Information:

     Test Type: General Combat

 

     Location: Personal Armory

 

     Time: 07-30-11, 0900- 1200 Zulu

     Weather: Clear, Warm

 

 

 

General

  I was previously well acquainted with the S.C.A. designated 'X7 Phenom' before the field test and held high regard for it's combat effectiveness. This upgrade, designated 'MK-7P', proved to be very much the same as I expected-effective, simple and needing to be modified. It arrived in unspectacular, formulaic packaging. It only took about ten minutes to switch internal components over and reassemble, but I took quite some more time as I inspected every facet of the product. For the most part, everything went together smoothly, but there were some unimpressive fitments between the magazine well and the lower portion of the receiver.

Walk-through

  It's pretty obvious to see what you have to do. Strip all external parts. Pull f/s [field-strip] pins and remove the engine and bolt. The kit will require you to use the hardware from your OE receiver [which seems really cheap me, $120 per and you don't send 3 effin screws?!?] Also, switch over the OE thread adapter. Insert bolt and engine into new receiver halves [with grease, of course]. Negative points right here- there is only ONE frigging internal surface that actually has moving parts- it is the portion of the tube around the bolt, and it is the ONLY part covered in black over-spray. Polishing this surface is recommended.

  Back on the outside, install the side feed-port filler, then magazine well is likely to need to 'persuasion'. Several Negative Points- There is a forward screw/hinge that required a ball-peen to make the nut seat and the screw is METRIC. Why is there one stupid metric, 3mm screw when every other receiver screw is .0125"?!? I recommend you keep a X-acto knife and a bastard file [needle files if you have them] handy for this part. The magazine well will require some force to make it seat, but it will work. It can be made to fit very nicely with a little filing around the hinges and trimming the mold lines. This is something I don't think you should have to do when you spend this kind of money on an upgrade, but there it is. I also think, that in the modern age of firearms, that ambidextrous controls should have been implemented. There is a little bit of a reach between the mag release and the trigger, and I think most people would have appreciated extended release controls. One last Negative, the picatinny rails don't line up right on top. Receiver assembled, put on the furniture.

  One note about the barrel shroud, the first three notches must be cut off of the bottom rail in order to use the OE shroud.

 

  It shoots pretty well. I can't tell for sure yet, but I think the ball detent being on top of the ball instead of under it is having a miniscule positive effect on flattening trajectory... possibly adding a touch of backspin or just not adding a front spin, further testing required.

 

Weather

  It was a semi- cool morning [ high 60's] and as the morning progressed it became increasingly hotter [high 90's, currently effin 98*]. Clear.

 

Factory Model Score/ Notes-

+Function/ Design_______: A-  :distaste for the mag-well hinge, looks like the hooks could be broken too easily

 

+Design Execution_______: A-  :attention to manufacturing detail was a bit low

 

+Function/ Reliability_____: A+ :solid, no cheap parts

 

+Cleaning/ Dis-assembly_: A+ :no tools required, easier access to breach

 

+Ruggedness___________: A  :seems impervious to dirt, mud, debris, but not confident about mag-well (see 'Design')

 

 

 

Final Grade: A

 

 

 

 

 

Improvements To Be Desired In Model

 

O Ambidextrous, extended magazine controls.

O Angle Mag-well chute for quicker mag insertion.

 

 

 

 

Tacamo Magazine Kit Shipping Dates

Posted by Red Commander on July 1, 2011 at 10:26 PM Comments comments (0)

Tacamo Magazine Kit Shipping Dates

Real Action Paintball and Tacamo are proud to announce shipment of our hot new Mag Fed Conversion Kit for Tippmann and BT Paintball markers! We have crews working around the clock to satisfy the outstanding demand for these new game change kits. Each week this month we'll have a new, exciting Mag Fed Conversion Kit to ship to players around the world. Read complete story.

Real Action Paintball and Tacamo are proud to announce shipment of our hot new Mag Fed Conversion Kit for Tippmann and BT Paintball markers! We have crews working around the clock to satisfy the outstanding demand for these new game change kits. Each week this month we'll have a new, exciting Mag Fed Conversion Kit to ship to players around the world.

Shipping this first week of July are the Mag Fed Conversion Kit For Tippmann Phenom! To use them, simply disassemble your Phenom and follow the enclosed instructions to reassemble the parts inside the Mag Fed Conversion Kit. By using most of the original parts, you retain the reliability, function, and other characteristics of your tactical marker. By using the Mag Fed Conversion Kit, you gain the look, balance, and accessory rails that truly make your marker as real as it gets.

The Mag Fed Conversion Kit gets that hopper out of your field of vision, and off of your marker completely for the most realistic look and balance in paintball. Interchangeable magazines feed your marker a stack of paint under constant pressure to eliminate chopping and ensure that a ball is there, in the chamber and ready, right when you need it...regardless of the angle of your marker or whether you shake it or not.

Add force-feed, and hyper-realistic looks and function to your marker with the Mag Fed Conversion Kit!

Shipping the first week of July: Tippmann Phenom Mag Fed Kits

Shipping the second week of July: Tippmann Model 98 and BT variant Mag Fed Kits

Shipping the third week of July: Tippmann A5 Mag Fed Kits

Shipping the fourth week of July: Tippmann X7 Mag Fed Kits

Place your order now to reserve your Mag Fed Conversion Kit, and we'll ship it to you on the above schedule so that you can dominate your field this summer. Rely on the quality, revel in the experience, and take the field by storm!

Real Action Paintball - As Real as it Gets!

http://www.rap4.com/tacamo-magazine-shipping-dates-a-368.html

Precise Shooting

Posted by the professional Pro on March 28, 2011 at 7:46 PM Comments comments (6)

I am often asked "What is a good barrel for my gun? I want to make it more accurate" My response has been the same for years- "No barrel will be more or less accurate than the last." Some will immediately cry heresy at my assertion, but just hear me out. 'Accuracy' is defined as somethings ability to accomplish it's task- specifically, to hit the mark in this case. All markers are completely capable to shoot bullseyes with any barrel however inconsistent they may be. What everyone is looking for is 'Precision'- the ability to put round on top of round again and again and again. To attain the illusive, nearly mythical, maybe fabled precision desired by all .68 shooters, one must understand one basic concept- regulation. All markers are basically pressure regulators, some better, some not-so-much. Some complex, some simple. Never the less, they all regulate air pressure for the purpose of launching a .68 round at someone else. Therefore it stands to reason that the best regulators will produce the most consistent shooting. So, we start with a regulator. An expansion chamber is better than nothing if you cannot afford a good regulator, but a regulator should be the ultimate goal especially if you are using CO2. I personally prefer a Palmer's for most applications due to their ruggedness. The least amount of hose or tuning between the regulator and the marker's valve the better off you will be, so mount the regulator as close as you can to the valve. Moving along the line, literally, to the valve. If there is an aftermarket upgrade for your valve and/or powertube you should highly consider it. If not, you should make sure the valve's guts are polished smooth. Also, make sure all of the o-rings and springs are changed every season to keep them fresh and consistent. Next, the bolt is HIGHLY important. A good bolt will reduce breaks by the way it cradles the round, will likely be lighter than stock, and will have a 'Venturi'. (see the great Wikipedia, Venturi Effect If there is no 'Venturi', you are usually wsting money. Now, the main topic, the barrel. There are basically three things to consider when choosin g a barrel. The bore and bore sizing, the pipe, and the porting and muzzle. The best barrels will be able to accept a boresizing kit of some sort. Boresizing is incredibly important, it matches paint size to barrel size to make each shot more consistent. I have a TECHT i-Fit kit and it's awesome. The 'pipe' refers to the barrel itself. Is it smoothbore or rifled? Straight rifling is useless by experience, it offers no real advantage, or disadvantage for that matter, to a smoothbore. Spiral rifling is useless if it is a copy of a firearms rifling, it must be matched to paintballs, not lead. Therefore many spiral rifled barrels are a joke. Hammerhead(available on the Red Dot Paintball Online Store, click 'Paintball Guns' tab in the top right corner) is one of the very few companies that use the correct degree of twist for paintballs in their spiral rifled barrels. I have recently become a Hammerhead user, in my short experience I see about two and a half to three inches difference in the size of my groups at forty yards. It's not the 'magical', fix-all' barrel, however it does seem to be mildly, but noticeably better than a smoothbore. Then, what is it made of, brass or aluminum or carbon fiber? Aluminum tends to be stronger and more ding resistant and definitely cheaper. However, brass has a natural lubricity which translates to less drag. Brass is really popular among old school players, brass barrels may be a new concept to you, but they have been around since the early days of paintball. You will also see a lot of 'pump' players using brass barrels. If you are interested in a brass barrel you should look at Palmer's. Hammerhead recently introduced some brass to their line as well. Carbon fiber makes a super light, super quiet , stealthy barrel. The multiple wrapped layers have an odd way of absorbing the sound. There is a rumor that carbon fiber cannot be squeegeed, that is the most ridiculous load of crap, I squeegee mine with no problems. on the flip side, leaving paint in a carbon fiber barrel for long time has been known to cause the layers to come apart, so this is probably not the barrel for irresponsible or forgetful types. Lastly, the porting. Porting is the holes bored in the barrel walls. Porting makes it easier for the ball to accelerate because it is easier for the air in front of the ball to escape. Because some of the air behind the ball escapes before reaching the muzzle, it makes a barrel quieter because it reduces the 'pop' when the ball exits the barrel. Porting at the beginning of a barrel is not to be desired. The first eight to ten inches of the barrel is used for acceleration, so for air to escape that soon would be inefficient. The remaining length of the barrel does two things- slows the ball back down due to drag and helps to lock-in the trajectory. So, those twenty-two inch barrels consume a LOT of air in order to launch the round at three hundred feet per second due to the excessive drag on the ball. Porting also gives the air in front of the ball somewhere to go instead of pushing it all the way out of the barrel. The other thing you should know about porting is that if it is reversed(angled away from the muzzle rather than perpendicular) then it further reduces forward muzzle blast and it is better at reducing air turbulence as the ball exits the barrel and therefore is more consistent and therefore more precise, however it forces the ball to push more air to the muzzle, so it is slightly less efficient. Look at the muzzles of real sniper rifles, competition target rifles and modern assault rifles like the M4 and compare. One last thing, try to avoid using adapters. If an adapter is used it really defeats the purpose of a bore sizer. The bolt should push the round directly into the the bore sizer for the best performance. In summery, look for barrels with the ability to use a boresizing kit, no porting in the first eight inches of the barrel, and reversed porting when possible. Good hunting, Pro out.


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